“It’s the place people go to escape, a place made of cabins, pine trees and lakes. But no matter how far you drive, there’s no sign to say ‘you’ve arrived.’ So just follow your heart til you find your special place that brings peace of mind. As you breathe in the air and unwind, your cares are all left behind. It’s not mystery where the Northwoods start. When you arrive Up North, you’ll know in your heart.” – Suzanne Kindler
There aren’t many places in the U.S. where you can snowmobile on a highway. H-58 between Grand Marais and Munising is one of them.
Home to the Crazy 8 trails, maintained by Grand Marais Sno-Trails Association, this trail system runs through Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and gives snowmobilers the chance to experience the lakeshore covered in several feet of snow. We have visited at least once every winter for the last three years. We plan our snowmobile trips around the weather forecast, snow depth map, and trail reports. The Crazy 8 trails are in a snowbelt along Lake Superior and usually stand out for all three. We haven’t ventured farther west in the U.P. or up to the Keweenaw, but the scenery along Pictured Rocks is second to none.
This is one of my favorite spots on the Crazy 8 trails! It’s off trail 888 and one of the highest points in the area. You can see the surrounding trees and the trail off to the right.
Riding the Crazy 8s
We made our first trip to Pictured Rocks and Grand Marais a few years ago, visiting the area’s many waterfalls and scenic points of interest over a long Labor Day weekend. We like Grand Marais because it is a quaint small town right on the bay of Lake Superior that borders Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. It’s also a snowmobilers’ paradise.
The Crazy 8s run along H-58 and create a “snowmobile highway,” connecting trails between Munising, Seney, Newberry, and Paradise. The well-groomed trails offer views of Lake Superior, rolling hills, thousands of acres of unspoiled forests, and other scenic stop-off points. Someone even made a video of what it is like to ride the Crazy 8s. This video was taken last year a couple of days before we got caught in a blizzard there.
We normally stay at Hilltop Cabins and ride right to the trails. I discovered Hilltop a few years ago on that first UP trip, hoping for a shower and real bed after a few nights of tent camping. Besides the comfy beds, view of the bay, and dog-friendly policy, I admire the owner’s tenacity to tough it out there and all the personal touches she puts into each cabin. She operated Hilltop as a single woman for years and does everything from install floors to build furniture to clean rooms and run the front office. It really is a special place that’s clean, cozy, and priced right! I even returned in May 2018 to volunteer and clean up the yard after snowmobile season.
We’ve been there for my birthday in early February when the weather was sub-zero – and returned again in early March. Last year, we visited over my boyfriend’s birthday in late February and experienced a true Upper Peninsula blizzard. This year, we delayed our trip a week due to a warm spell and returned home on March 3. The roads were getting bare, and it was harder to get in and out of towns and to gas stations, but the trails are still very nice.
We always have a great time. Out on the trails, it’s like entering another world. It’s hard to describe, so I will let the photos speak for themselves!
H-58 along Lake Superior
On this stretch of trail, snowmobilers can visit most of the scenic stops open during summer, including Sable Falls, Grand Sable Lake, Kingston Lake, Lake Superior overlook, log slide and Au Sable lighthouse.
It looks a little different every time we visit. Two years ago, Lake Superior was frozen as far as the eye could see, and we drove our snowmobiles out on the icebergs.
This year, the lake was barely frozen and the Hurricane River already has a steady flow into Lake Superior.
We also made our way to Au Sable Light Station, which offers views of the Grand Sable Dunes. It’s on the North Country Trail, and you can hike there in the summer.
Heart of the Crazy 8’s
The Crazy 8 trails consist of a loop of trails: 8 west heads to Bear Trap and Shingleton; 8 east goes to Pine Stump and Paradise; 89 (also H-58) runs north along Lake Superior and connects to 88/43; 888 runs north/south in the middle; and 88/43 links to 443 and back to Grand Marais. While I like the scenery along H-58, I also like the interior trails because of the natural beauty. Here are some from last winter. Snow, snow, snow!
Last year, our UP trip was fun, but we didn’t log a lot of miles due to a few unexpected bumps. We visited regular stops such as Lake Superior Brewing Company, Grand Marais Tavern and Pine Stump Junction, and it snowed nearly every day. On Feb. 24, we got caught in a blizzard. We had an awesome ride on trails 8/9 to Pine Stump and trail 9/498 to Wolf Inn. And then the wind picked up around 6:30 p.m. It was similar to being caught outdoors during a severe thunderstorm in the summer. You know it’s coming, yet you’re not sure when or how bad it will be so you keep having fun. Then bam! You realize the severity of the situation.
We rode the 30 miles back from Wolf Inn battling 50 mile-per-hour wind. We took it slow on the trail, and I stayed focused on the taillight in front of me. As we got closer to Grand Marais, we decided to take the main road (also H-58 to the east) and it turned into a complete whiteout. The town of Grand Marais lost power for 15 hours, and we found ourselves using the last stash of water we had and boiling snow on the gas stove to make coffee and flush the toilet. Luckily, our unit was one that had heat!
Due to the high winds, treacherous road conditions, and several highways being closed in the Upper Peninsula, we extended the trip by a day. Out on the trails, we had to ride over downed trees and huge drifts near Lake Superior. One thing I realized on that trip was how nice snowmobilers are. Several oncoming snowmobilers waved us down to warn us about downed trees on the trail, and my boyfriend helped pull a guy’s sled out of a ditch after nearly hitting a tree.
Trail 8 east to Pine Stump, south to bra tree
We normally take trail 8 east to Pine Stump at least once, but on this most recent trip, we rode it twice and the trails were in great condition. We took it all the way to the Siberia area, where forest fires wiped out vast acres of trees in 2012. From Pine Stump, we headed south on trail 9 to 431 toward Seney and back up 443 to Grand Marais. This area has different scenery than the Crazy 8s – including a bra tree. We rode part of this after dark, and it was beautiful in its own way. We stopped to look at the stars and moon and take in the stillness of the woods at night.
This is the location of the forest fires.
These are photos of trail 8 east of Deer Park Road/407.
On trail 9 south of Pine Stump.
The bra tree! I haven’t made a contribution yet because I keep forgetting to pack the bra with me (it’s in my snowmobile tote)!
Snowmobiling critical to U.P. economy
Stopping at the small gas stations and restaurants, it’s obvious how critical snowmobiling is to the Upper Peninsula’s economy. The groomers spend countless hours – and sleepless nights – maintaining the trails so people from across the Midwest can play. They work hard to keep the trails smooth, flat, and wide, dealing with whatever Mother Nature throws at them between Dec. 1 and March 31.
In addition, the clubs host benefit rides, including the Veterans Ride in Seney – the largest organized veterans ride in the country held on the first Saturday in March – and Grand Marais Sno-Trails Association’s Cabin Fever party. I’m also part of a growing group of Michigan Sled Chix who also love “throttle therapy.” The group’s founder Tara Pomaski-Markland organized a charity Ride Against Cancer with Michigan Faith in the Fight last March in Grand Marais.
Many of the gas stations and restaurants are owned by locals or entrepreneurs who moved to the U.P. for the slower pace and to get away from the rat race. These places include Bayshore Market, Pine Stump Junction, Wolf Inn, Bear Trap Inn, Melstrand Union General Store, Andy’s Seney Bar, Mater’s Stop-N-Go, North Store Follow Me Outfitters, to name a few. They are vital to the success of the UP’s snowmobile trail network because gas is essential!
My boyfriend’s sled was guzzling gas on this last trip, so he spent the morning fixing it. We don’t have new or expensive sleds because the season is so short. Woohoo, we don’t have any payments either! In fact, my boyfriend rebuilt the engines on both of our snowmobiles, but it goes to show you don’t need anything fancy to have a good time!
Still good riding in the Yoop
The trails in the Lower Peninsula typically start the big meltdown in March, and most of the ground is presently bare, but there is still time to ride in the Upper Peninsula. Last year, we were fortunate to cross the ice bridge to Mackinac Island and ride several times closer to home. State trails don’t officially close until April 1, and the snow typically hangs around Grand Marais until April or May! The whole winter season has been iffy, with less than average snowfall and above average temps in most of the state. If the snowbelt starts to turn to rain, we are in trouble!
Snowmobiling is a $26 billion industry in the U.S., and Michigan has one of the most extensive interconnected trail systems in the country. The state has 6,500 miles of groomed trails, and roughly half of them are located in the U.P. For Yoopers, snowmobiling is a way of life, connecting communities, serving as transportation, and helping locals survive during a long winter.
Taking an afternoon ride on a sled to eat is as normal as taking a Sunday drive downstate. In fact, we meet all ages and types of people – one year we met a guy on a solo, cross-state trek from Wisconsin. We saw a sled chick who appeared to be 70 years young at Pine Stump on our most recent trip.
Unless you have experienced it, the fun and joy of snowmobiling is hard to describe. Many people like the speed and adrenaline rush. My favorite part of snowmobiling is the scenery. The area along Lake Superior always inspires an appreciation for winter and the state’s natural beauty – and lets you escape from reality for a few days. Work? Do I really have to go back? Coronavirus? What’s that?
While many are off vacationing in Florida and the Caribbean for spring break, diehard snowsports’ enthusiasts start to get depressed that winter is winding down. I’m guilty of wanting to escape the drabby weather and go on a tropical winter vacation. This year, we took a cruise in January. One of the ship’s activities was a paint-a-canvas class of the Northern Lights and a Northwoods scene. I signed up because the picture reminded me so much of home. The other participants in the class commented on how good my pine trees looked. I said I see a lot of them in Michigan.
As we were riding, I couldn’t help but think about the painting. Tall pines, starry skies, and snow-covered streams. When you arrive Up North, you’ll know in your heart. And it’s always hard to leave.
Marla R. Miller is an award-winning journalist and content marketing writer who lives in Norton Shores. Please “like” or follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or LinkedIn.
