“There is something so special in the early leaves drifting from the trees – as if we are all to be allowed a chance to peel, to refresh, to start again.” – Ruth Ahmed
Highway M-22 garners national acclaim for its scenery, especially during color tour season, and views of rolling countryside. M-22 has been described as “one of the country’s greatest road trip adventures” on a Pure Michigan blog. In 2015, USA TODAY 10Best readers voted M-22 as America’s No. 1 Best Scenic Autumn Drive.
The 116-mile stretch of highway winds along the Lake Michigan shoreline, passing through Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and Michigan’s wine region. We’ve been visiting the Frankfort area for color tours since we first started dating a decade ago. You’ll be able to tell by how young we look in some of these photos.
There is so much to say about this area, whether you start in Manistee or start in Leelanau County and end in Frankfort. But make sure to check out my first installment of favorite fall color tours closer to home, Michigan fall drives: Muskegon to Ludington color tours.
M-22: Manistee to Frankfort color tour
Personally, I prefer heading north on this stretch of M-22. I think the views are better. Out of Manistee, you can actually start the scenic color tour by turning on M-110 or Lakeshore Road. This route takes you to Orchard Beach State Park and connects with M-22 in Onekama.
Orchard Beach sits on a bluff overlooking Lake Michigan, making it another fun place to camp in the fall or really any season. Portions of Lakeshore Road follow the lakeshore. You can stop off at Lake Bluff Bird Sanctuary or Bar Lake Beach on Lake Michigan.
Otherwise, M-22 veers off U.S. 31 near Little River Casino and heads to Onekama, on the shores of Portage Lake, and Arcadia. While this route winds through the countryside, there are a few highlights. Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club and Resort offers lodging, dining, and world-class golfing. The public Bluffs Course features a links style layout with panoramic views of Lake Michigan. Once you arrive at Arcadia, you’ll find a public beach but not much else.
Arcadia marsh, overlook on color tour
Arcadia Marsh Nature Preserve is a popular spot for birding as a Great Lakes Coastal Marsh, a rare and threatened ecosystem. This 400-acre coastal marsh is one of about 15 remaining along Lake Michigan’s Lower Peninsula shoreline. After exploring the preserve or the beach, you can stop off for ice cream before continuing the color tour.
Arcadia Overlook, also known as Inspiration Point, draws photographers and Instagrammers to bask in the beauty of Lake Michigan and snap selfies. And Arcadia Dunes: The C.S. Mott Nature Preserve provides diverse recreational opportunities right near Lake Michigan – all for free.
C.S. Mott Nature Preserve
Many people drive right past the signs for C.S. Mott Nature Preserve, but hidden within the woods and dunes are great hiking, biking, and birding trails. You can hunt for mushrooms, wildflowers, and some animals too. I wrote a Get Outdoors piece, Coastal Preserve, for the spring issue of Michigan BLUE. Here’s an excerpt from my story:
Why Visit?: “The property is amazing,” says Glen Chown, executive director of the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy, which oversees the preserve. “It has everything we love about Michigan — two miles of waterfront shoreline and coastal dunes that are world-class and rise straight out of Lake Michigan.”
The land conservancy has invested millions of dollars in trails, signage, and the universally accessible Overlook Trail. That award-winning, half-mile trail is accessible from the Baldy Trail parking lot, just off M-22 north of the Inspiration Point overlook.
Frankfort hub of outdoor activity
When visiting Frankfort, we usually camp at Betsie River Campsite, a private campground with cute dog-friendly cabins and vintage trailers if it’s cold. We’ve also managed to get a coveted spot at Sleeping Bear’s Platte River Campground. On past trips, we’ve kayaked the Platte and Betsie rivers and biked the Betsie Valley Trail from Frankfort to Beulah. We always enjoy Frankfort’s beach and scenic drives through the national park.
If you can handle rustic camping, there are several state forest park campgrounds near Honor. These include: Platte River State Forest Campground, Veterans Memorial State Forest Campground, and Lake Ann State Forest Campground. For budget travelers, it’s only $15 a night to camp. Another bonus: they are right on a river and lake. It’s an affordable way to vacation in the region. I wish we would have discovered them sooner!
Pumpkin Ed and Point Betsie Lighthouse
On a rainy day or any day, it’s worth a stop in Oliver Art Center, a community art center that offers classes and exhibits throughout the year. Read more about this Unique Shoreline Gallery in my story for Michigan BLUE. Other area attractions include Point Betsie Lighthouse, which hosts ghost tours in the fall. And make sure to scope out Pumpkin Ed, a popular pumpkin carver who sets up an elaborate Halloween display in his yard at 722 Leelanau, Frankfort.
Craft beer, wine in country setting
If food and spirits are more your thing, you can head inland. There are several unique breweries and wineries in the region: Stormcloud, Five Shores Brewing, St. Ambrose Cellars, Cabbage Shed, The Roadhouse Mexican Bar & Grill, and Iron Fish Distillery. Nearby, Crystal Mountain offers scenic chairlift rides to view the fall colors on select dates through Oct. 30.
M-22: Sleeping Bear Dunes to Leelanau
Many tourists and out-of-staters love this area since it’s right in the heart of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. But locals also enjoy Living in the Land of Delight, which you can read about in my feature for Grand Rapids Magazine.
The sightseeing is great from either direction. You can take M-22 north out of Frankfort or explore the Leelanau Peninsula out of Traverse City and head south on M-22. This color tour can take most of the day if you stop off at Empire, Glen Arbor, and Leland, also home to historic Fishtown. Glen Arbor has shops, Cherry Republic and Art’s Tavern. This historic local bar, with college and sport pennants covering the ceiling, is a great stop for lunch or a house beer.
Drive to the tip of Leelanau Peninsula
In Northport, you can keep going north and drive out to the tip of Leelanau Peninsula. Here you’ll find beaches, hiking trails, and rustic camping at Leelanau State Park. Grand Traverse Lighthouse decorates for the Halloween and holiday season and remains open for tours through December. Many people enjoy stopping in picturesque Suttons Bay for shopping.
Explore Sleeping Bear Dunes
This stretch of M-22 also includes many points of interest in the national park, including the popular Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, which is a must-do in the fall. You can test your heart health on the Dune Climb. If you like history, make time to visit historic Glen Haven Village and Point Oneida Rural District. The Philip A. Hart Visitor Center in Empire provides park passes, maps, and visitor information on the national park.
Another draw of this drive is that most of the attractions are free to see other than Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. You do have to buy a pass if you’re camping or planning a longer visit. The Lake Michigan Dune Overlook provides an impressive – and somewhat scary – view of the shoreline and dune bluff. The dune drops off down to the lake 450 feet below.
I don’t think this stretch of M-22 offers the most scenic views of colorful tree canopies and vistas from the car, but people like it because there is a lot to see and do. You can mix up the day with wine tasting and historic points of interest.
The popular Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail covers 20 scenic miles between Empire and Bohemian Road (CR-669) if you prefer two-wheeled color tours. You can access many hiking trails of varying difficulty that do offer scenic overlooks of the dunes and lake. And the view from the Lake Michigan Overlook always makes me go “Wow.”
Color tour passes farms, barns
The M-22 color tour drive also passes historic barns, farms, and roadside farm stands. The rural scenery along M-22 is another reason the route has earned national acclaim. It’s a nice change of pace from city life and makes you appreciate the simplicity of the country.
Take time to watch the leaves floating from the trees. Savor the smells of fall. Slow down and enjoy the scenery. Stop and pick out a pumpkin or have a picnic at a roadside park. And remember to reflect and recognize the life lesson. If the trees can lose their leaves every year and start over again, so can we.
Marla R. Miller is an award-winning journalist, travel writer, and content marketing writer who lives in Norton Shores. Please “like” or follow me on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or LinkedIn.
